Tuesday, January 29, 2013
Canapes
Tuesday's party. Salmon tartare, Beef tartare, Glazed carrot soup with cardamom, Seared Sirloin "Cap", Brussel sprouts salad, Crispy chicken, Butternut squash.
Some of these are just miniture versions of the a la carte menu's items. Glazed Carrot Soup with toasted Cardamom. We glazed a couple dozen carrot's with sugar and butter, stock, salt and pepper. Added to caramelized onions, cooked down with half stock/half water. Pushed through chinois after being buzzed. Served warm with ground toasted cardamom seeds. Salmon tartare like last week, this time on crispy potato chips. Advacado's, blood oranges and sesame seeds. The beef tartare is the same, this time on toast points. Brussel sprouts the same as well. The chicken was an expirement that worked out. The skin was removed from the legs and thighs. Placed on sheet trays between parchement and cooked until cripsy in the oven at 300 degrees. Meanwhile the legs and thighs were cooked in chicken and beef fat. Duck fat would have been better, thyme, peppercorns and garlic. The meat was picked once cooked, seasoned with chopped crispy skin, chives, the braising fat, salt, pepper and apple syrup(reduction).
Sunday, January 27, 2013
Beets
No photo yet, New dish. Roasted mixed color baby beets, peeled and seasoned with sea salt. Goats cheese, seasoned with salt and pepper and ran through kitchen aid paddle. Plate dressed with red beets reduction, piped cheese with star tip, seasoned beet greens. Olive oil and fluer de sel.
Steak Tartare
New steak tartare. Pickled cucumber, Orange reduction, sesame, Dijon mustard. One of the photos shows the base. After that we dress the beef in a soy and sesame sauce. Shaved parmesan, cubed brioche and poached egg. The egg and brioche are not in the photos. For the dressing, soy sauce, honey, sesame oil, sesame seeds, salt and black pepper.
Friday, January 18, 2013
Knives
Finally, they've came in. Both are Tamahagane knives, chef and petty. Made out of a carb and stainless blend, they do not "age" as the pure carbon steel knives do. As you can see in one of the photos, I am holding the new petty Tamahagane up next to my carbon steeled knife. The carbon was purchased at Korin in new york about 5 years ago. Even though the very end of the tip has been knocked off for some time now, it is still my favortie of all my knifes. It's not the most practical as say a chef knife may be in that it can funtion in many situations, but it is an incredibly thin/sharp knife that is easy to run over the stone and maintain. The chef knife is really thin compared to most western knives. It wouldnt be used to bust through a veal breast as say a Henkeils or Wustoff would, but again, is made for finer applications such as light chopping, herb prep, etc.
Chicken 5 Spice
Chicken 5 Spice
1 cup Chili Flakes,
1 cup Bay Leaf,
1/2 cup Black Peppercorn,
1/2 cup Paprika,
1 TB Salt
Grind all in spice machine. You will need to season with more salt before cooking.
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Brioche, Finished
The recipe we worked on the last two days came out of the oven today. The one issue we had was that we get all the air out of the base. Secondly, bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes. Turn the oven down by 20 degrees and brush all the loaves with an egg was(2 egg yolks and 1/6th cup water. Once brushed, sea salt, fresh ground pepper and the rock sugar. Bake for another 25-30 minutes until the bread is cooked throught. You can either insert a pin and check the consistency or fold one of the loaves out onto the counter and tap on the bottom. The brioche should sound hollow. Return to oven if not done and cook until the pin comes out completly clean and is hot.
After the loaves come out of the oven, leave them in their pans, and place on a wire rack to cool for 2 hours. After cooled down, fold out of pans and continue to let cool until completly room temperature. The recipe we made below makes 4 loaves of standard size bread.
I want to use this bread for the Ham and Swiss sandwiche's(Croque Madam with egg) and a BBLT. For brunch instead of the focaccia, possibly even as an option at dinner...
Salted Caramel Ice Cream
This is the base recipe for the caramel icecream that goes with Butterscotch PotdeCremes.
Makes 2 quarts:
2 1/2 cups sugar, divided,
4 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided,
1 tsp Sea Salt
1 tsp Vanilla extract (Prefer to use vanilla bean)
2 cups whole milk
6 large eggs
Heat 2 cups sugar in heavy skillet. Stirring with a fork and cook until dark amber. Add 2 1/2 cups cream, and cook until caramel dissolves. Transfer to bowl and stir in the sea salt and vanilla. Cool to room temp.
Meanwhile, bring milk, reamaing cups cream and remaining 1/2 cup sugar to a boil.
Lightly whisk eggs in a medium bowl, then add half of hot milk mix. Pour back into saucepan and cook over heat, stirring occasionaly with wooden spoon unil 170 degrees farenheit. (or coats back of spoon)
Pour custard through chinois into large bowl, then stir in the cooled caramel.
Chill and then freeze in machine.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
Ham and Cheese Sandwich (Croque Madam)
Preheat oven to 375 degree's farenheiht.
For sandwhich's:
8 -1/2 inch thich slices Brioche,
8 oz thinly sliced ham,
8 slices Swiss Cheese,
3 TB butter,
4 LG eggs,
1 cup Mornay Sauce.
Layout bread slices. Divide ham onto bread slices and top with cheese making sure none is hanging over edges. Heat thick cast pan, add 1TB butter once melted add half the bread, cheese side up. Cook 2-3 minutes till golden and transfer to oven to melt cheese. Meanwhile, cook eggs withremaining butter until set. You may need to place inthe oven for 1-2 minutes to set the whites. DO NOT FLIP.
Place sandwich on plate, Sauce Mornay, finish with eggs and garnish(peppercorns and sea salt). We will use the house made Brioche for this recipe.
Mornay Sauce:
3 TB butter,
1/2 cup diced onion,
kosher salt,
3 TB flour,
2 cup'smilk,
1 cup cream,
1 bayleaf,
3 peppercorns,
3 cloves,
fresh nutmeg,
and 1/3 cup grated Comte. (or Emmentaler cheese)
Melt butter, add onion and salt, cook slowly. Add flour, cook 3 minutes till Roux. Wisking, add milk and cream. Bring to a simmer, add spices. Slowly simmer, stirring constantly for about 30 minutes.
Remove sauce fromheat, season with salt, pepper and fresh nutmeg. Strain and then fold in cheese.
The Recipe makes 2 cups. Multiply as needed. Place sauce in plastics and cover with wrap sono skin forms. Can be reheated with a litle bit of cream.
Ideas, January 15th and 16th
Moving forward into next week:
Dinner:
Butternut Squash Roasted with Thyme and Garlic. Maple syrup, Bacon and Sea Salt. (we used the micro mire poix mix that finally came from M-T.)
Glazed Fennel Bulbs with )
Fresh Baked Bread: Popovers. Focaccia.
Dinner Salad. Lemon Vinaigrette, fine herbs. (Clamshells we are getting now are too big, maybe try working with some cucumbers instead.)
Lunch:
BLT. Slab Bacon, Bibb Lettuce and Tomatoes. I think we may use either the Focaccia or Brioche if it comes out to our expectations. The thought of the double Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato Sandwhich that comes with a roasted garlic aoili. Fresh cracked black pepper.
Warm Ham and Cheese Sandwich with Brioche, Mornay Sauce. Add a sunny side egg if requested. This is a Croque Madam that again, if the Brioche comes out well we will get going asap.
Replacment Salad: Ceasar.
Brunch:
Brioche Bread.
Warm Ham and Cheese Sandwich with Briochee, Mornay Sauce. Add a sunny side egg if requested.
BLT's.
Replacment Salad: Ceasar.
Breads: Muffins, we need to 86 the Focaccia asap and replace it with something more brunch appropriate.
Pork Bacon, no more Veal.
Brunch Potatoes. Now that we are in understanding on the cut and first cook, it looks like we are going to be ready to move into the final stages of putting these potatoes together. Kelly has twennty five pounds of spanish onions prepped for tomorrow, going to have her do my caramelized onion recipe. Fennel Fronds, parley and PICKED thyme. Salt, Sea salt, Fresh Pepper, Onions.
Idaho Potato's
French Fry is something that I've really never really spent a lot of time working with. At cafe lux they allready had a system they were happy with in place. No other place in the last 6 years has even had fries on the menu. Leaving me where I and the rest of the kitchen team helping me are. Previouse to my arrival, the kitchen had been using a potato called "Kennenbechs". They are one of the most expensive potato's out there and after some thougt, why not just the "Idaho's"? And why not? I'd never even heard of a Kennenbech before. They are primarily, from what I can tell a large yukon gold potato. No starch content at all. The size also lacks as they are very round, where as the dimmenshens I had wanted were 6inch by 3 inch. The Idaho's came in a 40 count which were great and can't wait to get started on them. The idea is we have to run out all the old ones which may take another day to two max.
Process as follows:
Wash Idaho's, getting rid of all excess dirt and loose scrap. Square the potatoes off as best as possible. While cutting and prepping fries preheat one fryer to 245 degree's farenheit. As the fries are cut they need to go into sinks with running cold water until the water turns from white "starch" to clear. Once the water is running clear, strain and pat dry. Place in baskets and submerge in the hot oil and cook until cooked throughout, 3 to 4 minutes. You have to be carefull to not over or under cook as it will make a huge difference in the end. Remove the fries from the oil, gently placing them out on trays with parchment and place in walkin to chill down. Keep in mind, every time the fries are moved, cut, rinsed, dried, cooked, strained, etc the fries are breaking down. So keep the movements to a minimal.
When ready for service and an order, preheat the fryer to 375 - 385 degrees. Place the desired amount of french fries in baskets and drop into hot oil. Cook again for 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown and crispy throughout. Immediatly place in a large metal bowl lined with towels. Season with both Kosher salt and Sea salt, fresh ground pepper, fresh herbs and parmesan off an micro plain. You can also use truffle oil, white preferabbly and or spanish paprika.
You can see the clear difference in qaulity both in length/size and color after being fried. The darker ones are the ones' that have being served now, the ligher ones are what we are shooting for consistently. Also a photo of the actuall potatoes being used for the new batches, which are 15 dollars to the case. The other, Kennenbechs, run 36 dollars a case.
Next to come are the sauces...
Sous Vide
We have two of these in the space. One of them we use for all our soft poached eggs, similar to how we did at Momofuku but in a circulating water bath rather than a water bath in an oven. The way it works, and what it's best at, is cooking ingredients at a lower than normal temperature for a longer than normal amount of time. What happens is that wether it's an carrot or sirloin steack the proteins and sugars/fats all cook at a super minimum rate. The produces a product that is beyond tender and if done properlly impossible to over cook.
For example, an egg, ordinary one, can be placed in these "immersion circulators" and cooked at 84 degree's celcius for any amount of time, because once the temperature if reached, the computer autommatically adjust's to make sure there is NO flucuation. The egg will come out of the bath after 2 hours the same as it will after 8. I have done a bit of work with these in the past, most memorable was the duck breast at Cafe Luxembourg on the upper west side.
The puddings are cooking over night tonight, we will see first hand what happenned over the course of the night. Hopefully we will have some good news when we arrive...
Muscavado Sugar
This is the sugar we are using in the "butterscotch" pudding's. It's very expensive stuff but makes the process of making caramel a scratch. Instead of melting white sugar down into caramel and folding in the butter, the Muscavado and butter are placed in a rondo and heated until melted. That's it. Fold in cream, vanilla and eggs and you are done. One quick not, we made a batch this evening, at 84 degrees celcius sous vide, somewhere around 10-11a.m. the puddings will be done. Also, lastly, at the resaturant we serve these in a small glass mason jar. With the lid taken off after cooking and chilling, a scoop of Caramel Ice Cream is placed on top and finally, black sea salt. Tomorrow we will post some photo's of this finished dessert, along with the breads, most importantly, the Brioche.
Muscavado Pudding
This is a good recipe for anyone who likes butterscotch.
9 cups heavy cream,
6 cups Muscavado sugar,
14 ounces butter unsalted,
2 vanilla beans, scrapped,
30 egg yolks.
Melt the butter and sugar together in a heavy bottomed pan. Meanwhile, mix the eggs and vanilla seeds. Also, while these are both working, bring cream to an almost boil and remove quickly. Temper into egg mix, then into sugar and butter mix. Strain through chinois and place in ramekins.
Cook sous vide 84.5 degrees celcius for 2 hours.
Alternative, water bath is 200 degrees farenheiht for about 2 hours.
Cool and serve with salted caramel ice cream.
Brioche Recipe
This is the dough we made earlier and will roll out tomorrow:
1/3 cup warm water,
.25oz active dry yeast,
4.5 cups AP flour
1/3 cup sugar
2.5 tsp salt
6 large eggs, room temp,
10 ounces butter, cubbed and room temp.
Combine the warm water and yeast. Be careful the yeast will die if the water is TOO hot. Meanwhile, sift together the flour, sugar and salt. With the Hobart, and paddle, slowly add egg mix until mixed throughout. Switch to the bread hook and add butter, a 1/3rd at a time. Beating medium speed about 4 minutes in between each batch. After all butter is added, slow to 1st speed and run for another 10 minutes adding enough flour to come into a soft ball. Place in a clean bowl, cover and let rise for three to four hours. Layout onto a flour'd surface and work dough for 5 minutes getting rid of all excess air pockets, and work until smooth and springy to the touch. Again, place in a clean bowl, this time placing in the refrigerator overnight. That brings us to now...
Tomorrow we will do as follows: Generously butter 2- 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaf pans. Turn the dough out and with floured hands divide the dough in half, shape into rectangles and place into loaf pans.
Let dough rise, uncovered until about 1/2" above top of pans which comes to about 3 more hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake in the center oven until weel browned and sounds hollow when tapped on bottom, about 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool on racks.
Fennel
New side dish, Fennel Bulb's. Looks like each bulb is large enough, if not too large. The one we worked with this evening seen above was done into 1/8's but probably could have went into 10. Once trimmed up, root left enough to hold together and all trimmed to be simmilar size they are glazed. Chicken stock, butter, salt, pepper and sugar. Placed in Rondo in an even layer, enough stock to just come up half way. Once the butter and seasoning's have melted into liquid and the stock has reduced by 10 percent, flip over one by one being careful to not damage them. Parchment paper lid, bring stock down by 80 percent, flip one more time. This time, remove the paper lid and reduce the rest of the way while baisting fennel occasionally. Once all liquid has came down to a caramel, pour over a rack and let rest.
For the pickup we were placing the 8 pieces in a satuaa with a litle bit of stock and reheating. Arrange nicely on a plate and finish with sea salt, fronds, micro mire poix. Olive oil if dessired. A dozen bulbs cost 16 dollars, working out to 1.33 per order. Adding all other expenses, at 2 dollar per plate, 25% comes to 8 dollars an order which is exactly where we wanted to be.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Tuesday
Veal Breast with Root Vegetables
Chocolate Cake with Banana's
And, I want to get the hydro lettuce going as the house salad. The source right now is too large, have to find a different one. Hopefully by this weekend.
Fine herbs, Lemon Vinaigrette, Red Grapes and Fennel
Pecan Bread Pudding Recipe
This is the recipe for the previous posted bread pudding. "Rum Soaked Pecan Bread Pudding":
2 qts toasted Cubed Bread(nuetral flavor),
1 qt toasted "Rum Soaked" Pecans,
10 whole EXLARGE Eggs,
1 qt Heavy Cream,
1 cup good quality Maple Syrup,
1 cup Brown Sugar,
1 1/2 cup "Vanilla" Sugar(this is the sugar we store the vanilla beans in),
4 TB AP Flour,
1/2 Vanilla Bean(scraped),
3/4 cup Rehydrated Golden Raisins,
1/2 cup Callebout Bittersweet Chocolate, shaven(we use 74percent)
Toast the Pecans and Bread in 375 degree oven until slightly browned. Meanwhile, place Eggs, Cream, Maple Syrup, both Sugars, Vanilla Bean, Raisins and Chocolate in bowl and wisk together. Wisk in Flour, then add toasted Bread and Pecans and let sit for 10 minutes to soak in most of the liquid.
Prepare a water bath in oven and cook, uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes or until stiff when shaken. If you are cooking individual ramekins it's a quicker time, where as a hotel pan or roasting pan can take 15 to 20 more minutes. If prepared in large pan, once cooked, let rest for several minutes then cool completly. Once chilled, fold out onto cutting surface and cut into desired shapes.
For service, re-heat in 400 degree oven for 4 to 5 minutes until warm and soft throughout. In the restaurant we finish with some shaved Chocolate and fresh Cream.
Ice Cream
It's winter, but we can still make some pretty cool desserts.
Today is Roasted Banana and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Recipe is for a little less than 1 quart finished product.
3-4 Banana's, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces,
1/3 cup Vanilla sugar,
1 TB Butter,
1 1/2 cup Milk,
1/2 Vanilla bean (scraped),
1 1/2 tsp Lemon fresh juice,
1/4 tsp Salt.
Place the banana's, butter and sugar plus vanilla bean casing in a satua and roast at 400 degrees until nice, soft and a bit caramelized. You will have to toss them around three to four times durring the cook procedure.
Once the banana's are cooked, place in the vita prep making sure to get all the butter and sugar into mixer as well. (remove the vanilla bean casing) Add milk, vanilla bean seeds, lemon, salt and puree until smooth.
Chill in refrigerator and spin accordingly.
Monday, January 14, 2013
Soft Chocolate Cakes
For the Motlen Chocolates:
1 1/4 cups bittersweet chocolate (we use callebout)
6 TB good quality butter, again unsalted
1 cup sugar (we use the vanilla sugar)
1 cup AP Flour
6 egg yolk, EXLRGE
6 whole egg, EXLRGE
Bring chocolate and butter together in double boil over medium low heat to melt. Sugar, egg yolk and egg whole together and wisk for three minutes. Fold egg mix into chocolate mix, blending well. Fold in with spatula flour until just mixed.
Butter and flour or sugar the ramekins, in the restaurant I've been using the exspresso cups because they are the perfect size but more preferable would be a ramekin suited to this application. Once buttered and floured/sugar, fill three quarters full and let rest on counter until ready to be fired. At 425 degrees we were comming out at 6 minutes, but some cases can take up to nine minutes but NO MORE. Depends on how often your oven is opened and how strong it is. Regardless, the chocolate should be cooked about 1/8th inch in from the sides and the middle should still be sticky.
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Green Herb Sauce
We had found this recipe a few weeks ago, here it is. The guys wanted to have a herb sauce with the sirloin, this one works well and comes out taisting really good. Veal stock, different herbs, some blanched, some raw and emulsified olive oil.
Desserts from the weekend
It's hard to get good photo's of our desserts, but they came out great this weekend. Bread pudding is from Scott's space out in L.A., the Chocolate is mine from NYC. It's a lava cake, 400 degrees for 6 minutes. Hopefully this week we will figure out the permenant plating for both desserts. The Pecan and Rum infused Bread Pudding is baked in a water bath for 35 minutes at 350. Callebout Chocolate and Pickled Raisins.
Thursday, January 3, 2013
Whole Grain Mustard in house (grass fed)
Whole Grain Mustard, in house for FOH:
1 1/2 cups oatmeal stout,
1 1/2 cups mustard seeds (dried),
1 cup Red Wine Vinegar,
1 TB Salt,
1 tsp Sugar,
1 tsp Black Pepper,
1/4 tsp following:
Cinnamon,
Ground Cloves
Ground Nutmeg
Ground Ginger
Measure out beer. Place in large bain, measure and add red wine vinegar. Add salt, pepper and spices. wisk together and finally add mustard seeds.
Age for 1-2 days in office.
Puree in robot coux until desired consistency is achieved as the mustard seeds will break down the more you puree, so be careful to not overdue.
Also make sure to keep scraping down the sides of mixer as you puree. Remove, season final and package. This recipe makes 3 1/2 cups.
This recipe mustard we will use for all FOH requests. For the BOH, for all recipes etc, please use Dijon Mustard from the Large 3kilo's.
Ketchup Recipe (grass fed)
Grass fed Ketchup(recipe makes 3 quarts, Multiply accordingly):
1 28 oz can San Marizano's Style Tomato, Roma,
3 medium yellow spanish onion, rough chopped,
5 clove garlic, smashed,
5 fresh jalapeno, smoked and deseeded,
1/2 cup brown sugar, light prefer,
3 cup cider vinegar,
water for conisistency, but usually does not need any, recipe follows...
Sautee until clear garlic, onion and jalapeno. Make sure to take seed's out of jalapeno before smoking. Once clear, add sugar and then vinegar, cooking down for a few moments. Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Pull of fire and pure with stick blender, transfer to new pot. Bring to simmer again, this time cooking for two to three hours until the desired consistency. Once off fire, season, and cool. Once cold, you can make your adjustments to consistency and seasoning final.
Probably for us, we mulitply times 5 which is...
5 cans Tomato,
15 yellow onion,
20 garlic cloves,
20 jalapeno's,
2 cups brown sugar,
13 cups cider vinegar
Hose Made List
List of house mades for week/weekend:
Ketchup
Mustard
Jerkey
Bacon
Salad Dressings
Pickles-cucumber
Pickles-red onion
Roma Tomato-slow cooked marinated
Foccacia Bread
Hamburger Buns?
Waffle Prep
Honey Butter
Sage Butter
Apple Squash Butter
Fruit Jelly and Jams
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